This month, Louis Vuitton’s choice of venue for its Cruise show turned out to be strikingly timely. The Palace of the Popes in Avignon, a historic medieval site that hosted six papal conclaves in the 14th century, served as the backdrop for this event.

Nicolas Ghesquière, the brand’s creative director, acknowledged the intriguing coincidence of hosting a fashion show in the same month as the election of Pope Leo XIV. He remarked, “There is something very strong about believing.”

The front-row attendees, dubbed VICs (Very Important Clients), exhibited a fervent devotion to Louis Vuitton that bordered on the religious—one attendee even painted the brand’s logo on her face.

The courtyard of the palace was adorned in papal red, with notable celebrities like Cate Blanchett, Saoirse Ronan, and Emma Stone seated on thrones at the heart of the setup. They gazed upon a catwalk that seemed to highlight the audience as participants in the performance rather than mere spectators. Ghesquière explained that he aimed to capture the spirit of the Avignon Festival, a contemporary theatre event that has been celebrated since 1947, emphasizing the dynamic nature of performance art.

With over two decades at the helm of Louis Vuitton, Ghesquière showcased a collection that was remarkably theatrical and joyous, while also displaying a hint of eccentricity. The designs blended elements of medieval grandeur—think heraldic capes, chainmail-inspired embellishments, fur-trimmed jacquards, and gauntlets—with a twist of 1960s rock chic.

He shared that his inspiration drew from two contrasting sources: the tale of Excalibur, particularly the powerful figure of the Lady of the Lake, and the iconic musician Janis Joplin. Ghesquière commented, “Musicians deeply influence our style choices today.”

Ghesquière’s incredible talent allows him to weave together such diverse influences into a coherent collection. His design philosophy marries historical references with a contemporary flair—what he describes as “that forward-backward thing.” This approach embodies a blend of unbridled creativity and commercial acumen, effectively producing must-have handbags. He stated, “We need fairytales more than ever,” and in Ghesquière, Louis Vuitton has found a true visionary.